Pak Khlong Talat, the flower market

This is the market that supplies the garlands, the temple offerings and the hotel arrangements for the whole city, and it works through the night. Lorries arrive from the growing provinces in the small hours, and by four in the morning the pavements are stacked with marigolds, jasmine, orchids and roses being sorted, bunched and strung.

The timing is the entire trick. Between four and eight it is a proper working market at full tilt. By ten it is a row of shops selling flowers, which is pleasant but is not the thing people describe. If you are coming halfway across the city, come early or come very late.

It is free and it is not a show. Nobody charges, nobody is performing, and the aisles are full of people trying to move stock. Stand out of the way of the trolleys.

What to buy. Phuang malai, the jasmine garlands, are sold by the dozen and cost very little. They are the offering you see hanging in taxis and at shrines.

It is a few minutes’ walk from Wat Pho and the Memorial Bridge, which makes a dawn visit and a temple morning one straightforward plan.